This is a story about an uncomplicated, classic, no-fuss crochet stuffed bunny rabbit, and the path she took from being an idea to a real bunny, just in time for Easter. Worsted weight isn’t always soft when crocheted tightly enough to prevent stuffing from coming out. I designed the bunny pattern using Lion Brand Vanna’s Colors, a discontinued yarn that I had in my stash, but it’s a good example of how the bunny would look using a normal, twisted, worsted weight or slightly bulky yarn. These PDFs are formatted without comments or ads, and have instructional photos at the bottom for optional printing. But now that I think about it, telling a story is always good. Different yarns show different results, as you can see below. So after all was said and done, I let her have at it to see how she’d react to these new stuffed animals. Please share your Floppy-Eared Stuffed Bunny with me on Facebook (One Dog Woof) or Instagram (@1dogwoof)! Check out my pattern shops on Craftsy and Etsy where you can purchase printable PDFs of my latest crochet patterns.Feel free to dress her up, but I like my stuffed animals unadorned and easy to hug.
Instead, she drags around this floppy, squishy puppy dog stuffed toy that my husband actually bought for me way back when we were dating. When I crochet stuffed animals and amigurumi, I tend to stuff it pretty tightly so that I can see the shape I’ve tried so hard to define. I mean, Kira’s tail can poke you when you’re sleeping! This yarn is super curly, which makes it difficult to see where you’re crocheting into. (9) Round 4: Work [1 sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Squeezing the last round together, and working through all 4 loops, work 2 sc across. If you’re making the head and working in joined rounds, make the slip stitch join into the stitch indicated by your first stitch marker. (24) Stop here to embroider on the nose right on Round 1, and attach the eyes approximately between Rounds 3 and 4, centered around the nose. Work [1 sc in each of next 2 st, and 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Work a chain stitch, and an sc into the same stitch. Continue working around and lock a stitch marker on the last stitch. The stitches were still tight enough to enable the fuzzy yarn to cover up all the stitch definition and keep the stuffing from falling out. (12) Stop here to stuff the head before the hole gets too small. To help with navigating these hard-to-see stitches, I used a lot of stitch markers. Stuff the head a little more full, but not tightly. I actually started color coding with my stitch markers to keep track of how many rounds of 18 or 15 or 12 stitches I had worked, but that’s up to you. The only issue to watch out for is when you’re installing the eyes. Work 2 sc in each of next 4 st, 1 sc in each of next 5 st.